Diane Arbus: Artist Profile

Diane Arbus’s photographs are not for the faint of heart. They are unsettling, often disturbing, yet undeniably compelling. They are portraits of the marginalised, the eccentric, the “freaks” as they were often labelled, but also of the seemingly ordinary – the suburban housewife, the child in its Sunday best. Arbus’s lens doesn't simply record; it probes, it questions, it forces us to confront our own preconceptions about normality and otherness. Her work, one could argue, is a kind of visual anthropology of the American condition, a sometimes brutal, sometimes tender, but always unflinching examination of the human psyche. As Susan Sontag wrote, “Arbus’s photographs are… about the secret life of America.” They are, to my mind, less about the what and more about the why – why we look, why we categorise, why we recoil or connect with the figures in her frames. As Arbus herself said, “I don’t press the shutter. The image does, and it’s like being gently clobbered.” It's a powerful description of her process, the sense of being overtaken by the image itself.

Arbus’s influences are complex and not always easily discernible. She studied with Berenice Abbott, Alexey Brodovitch, and Lisette Model, formative experiences that undoubtedly shaped her approach to photography. She encountered the works of Mathew Brady, Paul Strand, and Eugène Atget early on, visits made with her then-husband, Allan Arbus. These early encounters undoubtedly shaped her understanding of photography’s potential. While she admired the work of Weegee, the tabloid photographer known for his graphic images of crime scenes and urban life, her approach was fundamentally different. Weegee’s photographs are often sensational, focused on the dramatic moment. Arbus, on the other hand, was interested in the quieter, more subtle aspects of human experience. She sought to capture the inner lives of her subjects, their vulnerabilities, their anxieties, their hidden selves. “A photograph is a secret about a secret,” Arbus once said. “The more it tells you the less you know.” This sense of mystery, this feeling of something unsaid, is a hallmark of her work.

Her early work, including her commercial work with her husband, honed her technical skills and her eye for composition, but it was her personal work, her exploration of the city and its inhabitants, that truly defined her. She photographed circus performers, transvestites, and other individuals who lived on the fringes of society. These early images, while already displaying her distinctive style, are often more straightforwardly descriptive. Later, her work became more introspective, more focused on the psychological dimensions of her subjects. She began to use a Rolleiflex camera, which allowed her to get closer to her subjects and to capture their expressions with greater intimacy. This shift in technique coincided with a deepening of her artistic vision. She moved beyond simply documenting the “other” and began to explore the ways in which we all perform our identities, the masks we wear to navigate the world. “I really believe there are things nobody would see if I didn't photograph them,” she asserted. It's not just about the subject, but the relationship between photographer and subject, the implicit contract of looking. As she further noted, “For me the subject of the picture is always more important than the picture. And more complicated.”

Arbus’s photographs are not always comfortable to look at. They can be disturbing, even shocking. But they are also deeply human. They remind us of our own vulnerabilities, our own anxieties, our own sense of being different. She had a knack for capturing the awkwardness, the fragility, the sheer strangeness of human existence. “I’m always interested in people who represent themselves in a certain way,” she explained. “It’s like a mask that they put on. It’s a way of dealing with the world.” And it is these masks, these carefully constructed personas, that Arbus’s camera penetrates, revealing the humanity beneath.

Her inclusion in the Museum of Modern Art’s “New Documents” exhibition in 1967, alongside Garry Winogrand and Lee Friedlander, marked a turning point in her career, though her work was already evolving in this direction. This exhibition, which highlighted a new generation of photographers who were challenging traditional notions of documentary photography, placed Arbus’s work in a broader context and helped to solidify her reputation as a significant artist. Her two Guggenheim Fellowships in the 1960s also provided crucial support for her work.

Her 1972 retrospective at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, a year after her death by suicide, cemented her place in the history of photography. It was a controversial exhibition, with some critics accusing her of exploitation and voyeurism. But it was also a hugely influential exhibition, introducing her work to a wider audience and sparking a debate about the nature of photography and its relationship to reality. Her work was also shown at the Venice Biennale, a rare honour for a photographer. Since then, numerous exhibitions, including major retrospectives like “Diane Arbus Revelations” and “in the beginning,” have further explored and contextualised her work, revealing the depth and breadth of her artistic vision.

Arbus’s book, Diane Arbus: An Aperture Monograph, published posthumously, has become a classic of photographic literature. It features many of her most iconic images, accompanied by her own writings and reflections on her work. The book offers a glimpse into her creative process, her motivations, and her unique way of seeing the world. The acquisition of her complete archive by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2007 has ensured that her work will continue to be studied and appreciated for generations to come. The ongoing publication of books and catalogues, such as Diane Arbus Documents, further demonstrates the continuing fascination with her work and its evolving interpretation.

Arbus’s work fits into a broader context of 20th-century art that explored the themes of alienation, identity, and the human condition. Her photographs share a certain kinship with the work of artists like Edward Hopper, whose paintings depict the isolation and loneliness of modern life. They also resonate with the work of photographers like Robert Frank, whose book The Americans offered a similarly unflinching portrait of American society. “My favourite thing is to go where I’ve never been,” Arbus declared. And it is this spirit of exploration, this willingness to venture into the unknown, that defines her art.

Arbus’s influence on subsequent generations of photographers is undeniable. Her work has paved the way for a more subjective and personal approach to photography, one that embraces the complexities and contradictions of human experience. Photographers like Nan Goldin, Sally Mann, and Joel-Peter Witkin, each in their own way, owe a debt to Arbus’s pioneering vision.

Diane Arbus’s legacy is complex and multifaceted. She is remembered as a photographer who dared to look where others wouldn't, who challenged our notions of beauty and normality, and who revealed the hidden truths of the human heart. Her photographs continue to fascinate, to disturb, and to inspire. They are a testament to the power of photography to illuminate the darkest corners of the human psyche and to remind us of our shared humanity, even in our most vulnerable and imperfect moments. As Janet Malcolm wrote, "Arbus's photographs are not about freaks. They are about us." And it is this unflinching self-portrait, this unflinching look at ourselves through the lens of Diane Arbus, that constitutes her enduring legacy.

The Evolution of Photographic Lighting Techniques: Past, Present, and Future

Photography is an art that has been shaped by light since its inception. From the earliest days of the camera obscura to the modern era of high-speed LED lighting, the techniques used to illuminate subjects have evolved significantly. The history of photographic lighting is a testament to human ingenuity, scientific progress, and the ever-growing desire to capture the world in its best light. This essay explores the journey of photographic lighting, from its humble beginnings to the innovations of today and the exciting possibilities of tomorrow.

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Early Lighting Techniques: Natural Light and Simple Enhancements

In the early 19th century, when photography was in its infancy, natural light was the primary source of illumination. Photographers relied on sunlight streaming through windows or outdoor settings to capture their subjects. The first photographic processes, such as the daguerreotype, required long exposure times, sometimes lasting several minutes. This meant that early photographers had to carefully position their subjects in well-lit areas and use reflective surfaces, such as mirrors or white walls, to bounce light onto the subject.

As the demand for portrait photography grew, studios were designed with large north-facing windows to provide soft, even light. The use of diffusers, such as sheer curtains, helped control the intensity of sunlight and reduce harsh shadows. However, this dependence on natural light limited the flexibility of photographers, especially in poor weather or at night.

The Advent of Artificial Lighting: Oil Lamps and Gas Lights

In the mid-19th century, photographers began experimenting with artificial lighting. One of the earliest forms of artificial illumination was the use of oil lamps and gas lamps. These provided a consistent light source, though they were dim compared to sunlight and required long exposure times. The quality of light was warm and flickering, often producing an uneven illumination that photographers struggled to control.

The introduction of magnesium flash powder in the 1860s revolutionized artificial lighting. This highly combustible mixture produced an intense burst of light when ignited, allowing photographers to capture images in much shorter exposure times. While effective, flash powder was hazardous, producing smoke and posing a fire risk. Despite these dangers, it remained a popular lighting solution until safer alternatives were developed.

Electric Light and the Rise of Studio Photography

The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the advent of electric lighting in photography. The invention of the incandescent light bulb by Thomas Edison in 1879 provided photographers with a more stable and controllable light source. Studios began incorporating tungsten lamps, which emitted a continuous warm light that could be adjusted in intensity.

The 1920s and 1930s marked the golden age of studio photography, with Hollywood and fashion photography leading the way in lighting innovation. Large, powerful arc lamps and tungsten floodlights allowed photographers to achieve dramatic, high-contrast images. Three-point lighting—comprising a key light, fill light, and backlight—became a standard technique to sculpt and define subjects.

Chiaroscuro Lighting and its Influence on Hollywood Portraiture

Chiaroscuro lighting, a technique originating from the Renaissance era and famously used by painters like Caravaggio and Rembrandt, found a significant place in photographic portraiture. The method, which emphasizes strong contrasts between light and dark, creates a dramatic effect that enhances depth and emotion in an image.

In Hollywood's Golden Age, chiaroscuro lighting was extensively used by portrait photographers such as George Hurrell and Clarence Sinclair Bull, who crafted iconic images of silver-screen legends like Marlene Dietrich and Humphrey Bogart. The interplay of highlights and shadows in their portraits gave the subjects a mysterious and glamorous appeal that became synonymous with classic Hollywood photography.

Today, many contemporary photographers continue to employ chiaroscuro techniques in innovative ways. Photographers like Dan Winters, known for his moody and cinematic portraits, and Gregory Crewdson, whose meticulously lit scenes resemble stills from film noir, use dramatic lighting to create depth and emotion. Their work demonstrates the enduring power of chiaroscuro lighting in modern photography.

The Evolution of Flash Photography

Flash technology continued to evolve, with the introduction of the flashbulb in the 1930s. Flashbulbs contained magnesium or aluminium filaments that burned in an oxygen-filled glass bulb, producing a brief but intense burst of light. This innovation eliminated the dangers of flash powder while offering more predictable results.

By the 1950s, electronic flash units became widely available. These strobes, powered by capacitors, could be triggered instantaneously, making them ideal for freezing motion and capturing sharp details. The development of portable flash units enabled photographers to work outside of studios and document fast-paced events such as sports, journalism, and street photography.

The Rise of Ring Flash Photography

The ring flash was developed in the 1950s by Lester A. Dine for use in dental photography, providing even, shadow-free illumination for clinical images. However, its unique aesthetic—a striking, shadowless look with a halo-like catchlight in the eyes—soon caught the attention of fashion and portrait photographers.

By the 1970s and 1980s, the ring flash had become a popular tool in high-fashion photography. It was championed by photographers such as Helmut Newton and Richard Avedon, who used it to achieve a crisp, high-contrast look that emphasized facial features and skin texture. The technique became synonymous with edgy, hyperreal portraiture and has remained a staple in fashion and beauty photography.

Contemporary photographers such as Rankin and Juergen Teller continue to use ring flash to create bold, direct, and sometimes surreal images. Its signature aesthetic—flattening the subject while producing a bright, stark quality—makes it a favourite for editorial and commercial work.

The Influence of Disposable Cameras and Snapshot Aesthetics

The rise of cheap disposable cameras in the late 20th century led to a raw, spontaneous style of photography that emphasized imperfection, overexposure, and high contrast. This unpolished aesthetic, once considered amateurish, became a deliberate choice in fashion photography, where it was used to capture candid, intimate moments that felt authentic and unfiltered.

In the 1990s and 2000s, photographers such as Terry Richardson and Corinne Day popularized the snapshot aesthetic in high fashion. Richardson’s direct-flash style, often shot with compact point-and-shoot cameras, became a defining look for campaigns by Gucci and Supreme. Meanwhile, Corinne Day’s documentary-style images of Kate Moss in the early ’90s helped redefine beauty standards in fashion, favouring naturalism over polished perfection.

Today, this aesthetic continues to be influential, with photographers like Juergen Teller and Petra Collins incorporating elements of the snapshot style into editorial and advertising work. The accessibility of smartphone cameras and social media has further cemented the appeal of this raw, unfiltered look in contemporary visual culture.

The Return to Naturalism: The Dusseldorf School

The late 20th and early 21st centuries witnessed a resurgence of interest in natural light and a more straightforward approach to photography.

1 This shift was significantly influenced by the Dusseldorf School, a group of photographers who emerged from the Kunstakademie Düsseldorf in the 1970s and 1980s.

Figures like Andreas Gursky, Thomas Ruff, and Thomas Struth, among others, championed a style characterized by a cool, almost clinical aesthetic. They often employed available light, eschewing dramatic studio setups and artificial illumination. Gursky, for example, captured vast landscapes and architectural structures with a stark, almost documentary-like approach, emphasizing the inherent beauty of the subject matter rather than manipulating it with elaborate lighting. Ruff's portraits, meticulously composed and often shot in daylight, sought to strip away artifice and reveal the underlying essence of his subjects, whether they were self-portraits or portraits of strangers.

This return to naturalism reflected a desire to move away from the artifice and manipulation often associated with commercial and fashion photography. The Dusseldorf School sought to establish photography as a more objective and documentary form of art, emphasizing the inherent truthfulness of the image. Their work challenged the prevailing trends of the time, which often involved elaborate staging, heavy retouching, and the use of artificial lighting to create idealized and often unrealistic representations of reality.

The influence of the Dusseldorf School can be seen in the work of countless contemporary photographers. Their emphasis on natural light, careful composition, and a focus on the inherent beauty of the subject matter has become a significant force in contemporary photography, inspiring a new generation of artists to explore more authentic and less manipulated approaches to image-making.

Future Innovations in Photographic Lighting

As technology continues to progress, the field of photographic lighting is undergoing exciting transformations. LED lighting has become increasingly popular due to its energy efficiency, adjustable colour temperatures, and portability. Photographers like Lindsay Adler and Jake Hicks are known for their creative use of coloured LED lights, producing bold and dramatic imagery that pushes the boundaries of traditional lighting techniques.

Other innovations include the use of programmable lighting setups, such as DMX-controlled LED panels, which allow for dynamic, cinematic effects that were once only possible in high-end film production. Additionally, photographers like Erik Almas and Benjamin Von Wong are experimenting with unconventional light sources, including neon lights and fibre optics, to create unique visual aesthetics.

Looking ahead, advancements in AI-driven lighting, holographic projection, and even bioluminescent sources could revolutionize the way photographers shape and manipulate light. As technology continues to evolve, the future of photographic lighting will be defined by an ever-expanding palette of creative possibilities, allowing photographers to craft images that are more immersive and visually striking than ever before.